Roll On Couture

Roll On Couture

MONDAY sees the return of Couture Fashion Week for spring/summer 2012, hot on the heels of the men's shows (see all the action here), and with them comes another couture return: Atelier Versace. Donatella hasn't showcased her bespoke wares anywhere but the red carpet since January 2004 - but what better season to show the brand's most expensive dresses than the one which debuted its least expensive ever: for H&M?

After Versace's opener, the day sees a mix of the old and new of the couture world take to the catwalk. Two of the fashion house's newest additions; Alexis Mabille and Giambattista Valli, show on Monday; as does one of couture's institutions - Christian Dior - still with Bill Gaytten at the helm. Only his second collection since taking over as creative director, it could scarcely receive a more robust critical panning than his first, but his ready-to-wear line in October fared much better, so perhaps summer is his season.

Tuesday brings out the big guns: Chanel, Givenchy and Giorgio Armani Privé - as well as couture's "Modern Knight", Stéphane Rolland, who promises his show's bride will be a surprise worth waiting for.

Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier promise to thrill us on Wednesday: with fun, frivolity and fabulous models on one hand, and with almost-edible frothy dresses and make-up we'll want to copy on the other. One thing is for sure: when dresses that cost more than a house are worn by the world's most beautiful women - the pictures are always worth a look.

Click back on Monday for the latest fashion as it happens.

YOU SHOULD SEE: The latest menswear shows, just in...

YOU SHOULD SEE: Who is bringing couture to London...

YOU SHOULD SEE: What Stéphane Rolland told us about his next couture show...

Source: VOGUE - LAUREN MILLIGAN 20 January 2012

Marc Jacobs on DIOR

Marc On Dior

Marc Jacobs has spoken about how flattered he felt to have been considered by Bernard Arnault to succeed John Galliano at Christian Dior, but has again reaffirmed that he will not be the one to step into the British designer's shoes.

"It's a great honour to be considered, and Mr Arnault is a super intelligent man and a very smart man and it was certainly a very great honour for him to know that I was capable - and not only capable but that I am someone that he would have wanted for the job," Jacobs told the Telegraph. "But I am very happy to be here. There is so much more left to do and building Louis Vuitton into a fashion company is something nobody else can say they really started."

SEE THE LATEST ON GALLIANO

It was rumoured that contract negotiations broke down when Jacobs' request to bring his entire Vuitton team with him to Dior was rejected by Arnault. So was the job his to refuse in the end?

"Well… it's a little bit more complicated than that…but we agreed that it was probably best for everyone," he said.

Updated Monday December 19, 9.20am: Marc Jacobs has ruled himself out of the running for the Dior job once and for all.

"I am at Vuitton, and I am very happy there," said Jacobs. "I've been saying that for a long time. There have been on-and-off conversations about Dior. I don't know; maybe someday in the future, maybe years from now, I may end up going someplace else, maybe Dior. But right now I am at Vuitton, and all that matters to me is that that's where I am and I'm going to keep doing my thing.

"The irony in all of this is that I don't dream of doing anything else, or I didn't. My greatest challenge is to do something better than we've done the season before. The idea of couture doesn't hold that thing for me. It's archaic - in my opinion. I mean, I am really interested in the craftsmanship behind couture. But I can explore all that in ready-to-wear. With couture, one dress each season is photographed by a couple of magazines; there's no advertising; it reaches 20 customers. I don't feel there is anything lacking in what we do. I get to work with these amazing craftsmen. Maybe not the same ateliers that would make a couture dress, but, again, we are not in a deficit for working with people who create beautiful things. I am not sure I ever looked at couture as this great opportunity."

SEE JACOBS' LATEST LOUIS VUITTON SHOW

And at Christmas time, when most people are celebrating with families, Jacobs has expressed his own views on togetherness. The designer has not seen his mother, brother or sister for 20 years.

"I hate this idea that you have to love somebody because they are your family," he told US Vogue. "Nobody can tell me what I'm supposed to feel and who I am supposed to feel it for. I don't blame them, I don't hate them, I just know that I don't feel love for them. That's all. And I am not going to make the call or try to stay in touch because society says, But it's your mother. Oedipus, Schmoedipus."

Source: VOGUE - LAUREN MILLIGAN 09 January 2012

Marc Jacobs for Christian Dior?

Marc Jacobs - VOGUE

Since March of this year, the fashion industry has been abuzz with theories on who will replace John Galliano as creative head at Christian Dior. He was fired earlier this year due to his drunken anti-Semitic remarks. With choices ranging from Alexander Wang to Keren Craig of Marchesa to Givenchy's Ricarrdo Tisci, it now seems like the most likely successor will be Marc Jacobs. 

Dependable Fashion newspaper WWD has reported that talks between LVMH and Jacobs, who is currently head of an eponymous label and the Louis Vuitton label, have been ongoing. Meetings between them are to take place this week in Paris.

If Marc Jacobs is the replacement of choice at Dior, his place at Louis Vuitton is to be taken by Phoebe Philo. Philo too is part of the LVMH bandwagon as creative head of the label, Celine.

Rumours have hit every source from fashion magazines like Harpers Bazaar and Vogue UK, fashion websites, to the blogosphere. As for who really does end up heading what, it is all in the hands of LVMH head Bernard Arnault who will make the final decision. 

Source: Huffington Post