Le Bon Bride
STÉPHANE ROLLAND's final couture look - his bride - at his catwalk show, is never a
traditional bridal dress, and this season was no different. Following his burnt orange jumpsuit for spring/summer 2011,
and autumn/winter 2011-12's kimono-style coat,
this season's red creation had an added element of drama: Yasmin Le Bon.
Tell us about the inspiration behind this season's
bride.
"The bridal gown is always the most anticipated look in the show,
with all threads and themes culminating in one final creation. The inspiration
for the collection as a whole was the work of architect and artist Michel
Deverne, as particularly reflected in the lacquered metal adornment cascading
down the front. I have been known for steering clear of traditional aspects of
bridal wear and this season was no exception. I wanted a pure red figure, with
a train worthy of a coronation."
Did Mr Deverne attend the show?
"He was invited and did confirm attendance, but sadly pulled out at
the eleventh hour due to illness. Communication resumed after the show to
arrange a meeting between us, only to have that cancelled with tragic news of a
fire at his home that claimed not only much of his work but also his life. It
was devastating to hear."
What processes were involved in making this
season's bride?
"Simple designs of the purest cut are often very technical
challenges to execute. I needed the train to spread across the width of the
catwalk, without folding when pulled forward. This aspiration involved
constructing a complex internal structure and took several adjustments."
How much fabric did it take and how many
hours of work?
"We used 45 metres of silk and wool jersey. It took four
seamstresses around 200 hours to complete."
What was the most challenging thing about
achieving this season's vision for the bride?
"The greatest task was something I face every season: to create an
authentic surprise and stir up emotions. This, of course, not only depends on
the creation, but also on its presentation, namely the model bearing it, and
the music accompanying it down the catwalk."
You chose a high-profile model as this season's
bride for the first time. Why did you ask Yasmin Le Bon to wear
this dress?
"Yasmin is, above all else, an encounter with beauty. Her integrity
and principles are contrasted by a delightful rock 'n' roll vibe. She is so
British but at the same time maintains that sparkling Persian charm. With her
timeless beauty and unique aura, Yasmin was an obvious choice."
What did she bring to it that no other model would
have?
"A serene sensuality… with a dramatic dignity: she rivets the
audience with her curious blend of noble royal and haughty warrior. She was
electric. It was a moment of true grace."
She had escorts on the catwalk. Was this aesthetic
or practical? Was the dress very heavy?
"The two boys weren't planned at all. It was a last-minute choice
during rehearsal, two hours before show time. The dress weighed in at about 110
pounds, and the friction on the carpet was slowing her movements. We initially
lined it with plastic to ease the friction, but she still needed assistance to
turn at the catwalk end, so we called in two courtly 'pages' to escort her,
which in fact added a romantic touch."
How did you feel when she took to the catwalk?
"As soon as Yasmin stepped out into this perilous performance, my
team and I were in a total state of suspense, glued to the monitor backstage.
But we were soon reassured by the rapturous applause echoing across the museum.
It was a terrific thrill."
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